Being a life long surfer, it’s always cool to be able to contribute to surf media article that old surf friends ask to me write for or, in this case, be very briefly quoted in. This article may hide behind a pay wall so here’s what I had to say: “I do think that adversity can contribute to competitive and championship tendencies,” said licensed therapist Brad Smallwood. “Very oftentimes something like surfing is an escape from a chaotic environment and I’ve noticed that many surfers I’ve grown up with come from homes they want to be away from. This is something I’ve observed both growing up surfing and in communities that produce great surfers.”

https://stabmag.com/features/wave-pools-wealth-equality/